SEPTEMBER 27, 2013 PARIS
By Tim Blanks

The prefix trans- means, among other things, “beyond” and “changing thoroughly.” There’s not much more you need to know about Raf Simons’ show for Christian Dior today than that this was, according to his show notes, “Trans Dior.”

Of course, that’s not strictly true. Whether you actually need to know it or not, you might like to know that the collection represented a startling dissection of Christian’s codes, and an equally striking injection of Raf’s. The bifurcated Bar jacket that launched the show was the barest statement of intent. And he’s always liked badges and insignia—the emblems of clubs, gangs, tribes, youth cults—so it was fascinating to see him apply them to a clubhouse as heavily codified as Christian Dior.

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